When too much Nazi history is never enough

Nuremberg is of course known for its Nazi associations, and that was the focus of the day.  But first, a report on Friday night.  Food was very much the immediate need and I went over to the old town from the hotel for this purpose.  I'd also heard that the old town featured an acclaimed Christmas market at this time of year.  I can report that I found it, but not before half of Nuremberg had already done so.  They call it Christkindlmarkt, which sounds much more enticing.  You can choose from the finest Christmas decos:

 

 

 

Or maybe und kleine specialty fruit cake?

 

The atmosphere was actually quite festive, and not a bad place to spend an evening, as long as you don't mind being shoulder to shoulder with 20, 000 Germans all drinking that dreadful gluhwein out of miniature beer steins.

 





 

I myself opted for the beer stein containing what it was intended for, not warm, clove flavoured syrup that leaves a purple ring around your mouth.  Oh, and I ate too, although the beer was the highlight.

 

Saturday started out drizzling and got gradually worse.  My Michelin Man coat and beanie were essential all day.  Nevertheless, I wasn't to be deterred.  Today was Nazi history day.  Nuremberg is known for both pre and post WWII events.  Starting with the latter, as I did, the Justice Palace where the Nuremberg trials took place in 1946 is about a 15 minute walk from the hotel.  You can see the actual courtroom where Goehring, Speer, Hess and others faced the music (Martin Bormann would have too, but he was tried in his absence.)



 

 

It's still in actual use, although I can't imagine that unpaid parking fine cases are likely to rival the occasion for which it's remembered.  I was hoping to see the prison cells where they were held and where Goehring managed to end it all by taking a secretly-concealed cyanide pill the night before his scheduled hanging, but for some absurd reason that building has been demolished.  Nevertheless, there's an exhibition as well with the obligatory audio thingy in English, which is extremely well done.  You could easily spend several hours there without getting bored.  Well at least I could but I suppose it's an acquired taste.

 

From there I was off to the most famous pre-war historical site, the Nazi party rally grounds.  This was further afield and I needed the number 6 tram to get there, which I managed without great incident.  Pretty easy really, otherwise I certainly would have struggled.  Construction of the rally grounds started in 1933, and they were never finished.  Work was still under way in 1939, when other matters got in the way.  They were intended as an architectural symbol of everything the Nazi party stood for.  Although unfinished, you can see the grand scale that was envisaged.  This is from the inside.

Reminded me a bit of the Coliseum in Rome, but about 20 times bigger.  The outside is better preserved.

 

The city is also known for the so-called Nuremberg Laws, passed in 1935, that mandated systematic discrimination against and oppression of Germany's Jewish population.  Again, there is an exhibition at the site that attempts to document everything you'd ever want to know about the Nazi party and possibly then some.  Considering the design, the layout, the exhibits themselves and the educational value of it, I'd have to rate it as superb.  There is of course an English language audio guide that you get with admission.  By the way, admission to the rally grounds and Nuremberg trials exhibits is 5 euros, which is an out and out bargain.  By comparison, my recollection is that the trip to the top of The Shard in London is 40 pounds.  Not that we were tempted to actually do it, but I'm just sayin. 

 

I'm left with the impression that the post-war Germans have gone way out of their way to document Nazi history, lest it be forgotten.  They deserve enormous credit for doing so.  Is there a museum in Britain devoted to atrocities committed in the name of Empire?  How about: Greatest Gulags of Stalinist USSR; 1921 to 1954?  (Never having been there, I suppose there could be one, but I'm betting against it.)

 

Also close to my hotel is the DB Museum.  DB (Deutsche Bahn) is the company that runs the German rail network.  If you're into trains, I reckon this would be the highlight of your European holiday.  You could spend a whole day there.  That's you, not me.  I opted for about an hour, but hardly scratched the surface.



 

 

The oldest and newest life-sized exhibits.  And yes, there's a section devoted to trains in the Nazi era, which they named Reichsbahn.  Of course.  There's that theme again.  There's also a gallery on the challenges involved with creating a nation-wide rail network following the unification of West and East Germanys.  Must have been quite something, but from what I can tell they've pulled it off.  I reckon this part of the museum would have been really interesting, more so if I could read German.  But I was prepared to use my imagination.

 

I probably would have stayed longer at the train museum, but looking out the window at about 4.15 reminded me it was already dark, and accordingly a great thirst came over me that had to be satisfied.  As it is being right now.  This hotel isn't bad at all.  A fair bit above the normal Ibis standard I think.  Well located, and everything works fine.  I'd give a special commendation to the shower, which is remarkably easy and satisfactory to use, particularly compared to others I have known and not loved.

 

Although the city is best known for its Nazi associations, it does have a far older history, most of which is pretty close by.  That will be the focus of tomorrow.  I'm keeping fingers and toes crossed that the rain heads somewhere else, like maybe Australia?